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December 2007 - Posts
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December 30th, 2007 by Shenron
The Morgan Aeromax is a vehicle that is based on the Morgan Aero 8, and was commissioned by Prince Eric I. Sturzda, and only 100 will and have been manufactured. The Morgan Aeromax was built out of many alloys and uses a single alloy sheet to the forming, while the frame, built of ash, has been laminated for an exceptional amount of strength and insured that it remains durable, strong, and provides for a large amount of protection for the driver in the event of a collision. Featuring three backbones on the interior skeleton the frame also incorporates nine layers of laminates and has them visible from the inside of the car. The Morgan Aeromax also features a BMW N62 V8 for its powerhouse, an engine capable of great power and yet has a very modest to limited emission output and a decent fuel economy, making the car easier to maintain. The detail put into the Morgan Aeromax include the chassis beams and the custom build luggage, along with a split rear window to provide access. The chassis beam protects the driver in the event of a highly-unlikely rollover.
The design of the Morgan Aeromax was created by first basing it on the Aero 8, and then running it through a digitized process to create for it a base file on CATIA, which was then used to define the shapes and panels, along with glassworks and other parts, from this the jigs and such were manufactured to build the vehicle. The engine is a naturally aspirated model with 333 horses when revved up to 6100 RPM and it takes up 4.4 liters, making its output roughly 76 horses a liter. The top speed of the Morgan Aeromax is well over 160 miles per hour and it has an impressive torque rating of 331 pounds per foot at just 3600 RPM. Most of the vehicles feature a six speed gearbox transmission, a hydraulic limited slip differential and for the brakes has vented disks on the front and the rear. It can go from 0-60 in about four seconds, and the fuel consumption of that V8 is about 25 miles to the gallon, with variations depending on setting from 17 in city and 35 out of city. A notable person to own one of these Morgan Aeromax vehicles is Rowan Atkinson, who plays the character Mr. Bean.
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December 29th, 2007 by Shenron
Caterham has been building light sport vehicles since the seventies, however it was not always a manufacturer. Caterham started as a dealership of cars in the early 50s and continued to sell them during the 60s. Unfortunately the Lotus discontinued the much beloved Lotus 7 racing car, which was designed to require minimal effort to keep in tune, and machined very efficiently – the car was one of the mainstays of the company and looked as if it would fall to the dustbins of the automotive industry’s long history of designs that are no longer made… however Caterham bought the rights to the vehicle, along with the name. At first they began production of the Series 4 updated to the Lotus 7 line at Caterham, however sales started out poor and feedback was that people liked the series 3 better – so that is what they did and have been doing ever since. This year marks the car’s fiftieth year of being produced – and it is still relatively the same as it was fifty years ago making it one of the longest lived unchanged car models in the world.
Currently they have advanced the Model 7, but still sell the original model seven itself also in kit form. Currently the differing models they offer are all variants of the Model 7 lotus, but with differing features. The Classic is considered as the original of the series and is still produce, followed by the Roadsport which is an update on the suspension systems and linkages along with anti-roll bars and a larger engine. After this is the CSR which is their newest, and has a brand new chassis with independent suspension in the rear along with better drag reduction built into the design along with a much more powerful engine. The other two models are the SV and the Superlight, with the SV being close to the Roadsport but with a longer and wider frame, giving more room and wider wheel stances – the Super light is a track only version that has many parts replaced by carbon fiber and has its own sub line based on engine power.
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Posted in Car Brands, Caterham | |
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December 11th, 2007 by Shenron
As you know, during winter not only do cars suffer, but the roads they drive on progressively get worse and will develop faults in them that can contribute to more car repair issues than any other major factor. You’ve hit them, I’ve hit them, and we’ve all hit a pothole. But how bad could it be? Well, considering the amount of stress it puts on the vehicle’s shocks, the car’s struts, the springs, and not to mention the tires and the loss of a hubcap or two. Over time this can wear down the vehicles entire frame and integrity, joints loosen, parts begin to move, and eventually something comes loose, and you end up being the one that pays for it. So, how can you lessen the impact when the roads begin to warm and the potholes become a problem?
First off you can make sure you maintain tire pressure, this gives you and additional cushion, and keeps the wheel from changing shape as it passes over the hole. If you see one in time, slow down as much as possible before you run over one - the slower the speed the less the impact, if you rev it up and fly over the hole you are likely to get into an accident, or totally destroy the chance of your car not having any major problems in the near future. If you know the road you must travel on is filled with them, be firm in your grip on the control of the car - maintain control and do not let go. Once you’re going over the little bombs do not apply the brakes - this increases the amount of strain on the front tires and will increase the strain on the front suspension system, in addition look before you cross over any puddles - they could be disasters in disguise. Many pothole damage related automotive problems occur from these menacing puddle filled pools of doom - you can’t tell it’s a pothole unless you are careful. Slow down and avoid large puddles or round shaped ones that seem deep. One hit of a bad pothole can misalign you tires, break the struts, harm the steering alignment, and even lead to braking problems if you really hit a doozy.
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December 11th, 2007 by Shenron
Your transmission, the gearbox that helps you maintain speed, specifically the automatic breed, can be adversely affected by the winter cold and lead to transmission failure and replacement. Keep an eye on the RPM number with gear shifts and note any changed carefully, if your transmission doesn’t seem to shift as often as it used to, takes longer, goes at higher and higher RPMs to shift or just stays in one gear most of the time you might very well have a problem. The one thing you definitely want to do is make sure your transmission fluid is fresh, and can withstand the cold - old or under rated fluid becomes sluggish in the winter and will eventually lead to further problems as the transmission lacks its much needed lubrication to function properly and efficiently.
If you start to hear whines with gear shifts, notice sluggish shifting or otherwise have concerns, and your transmission has already had the fluid changed take it to a service expert as soon as possible, it could be that you may need a new transmission - and having a blown automatic transmission in the dead of winter on a snowbound road is something you do NOT want to experience, especially if you haven’t followed what I wrote earlier on what you should have in your car during the coldest days of winter when you just have to drive in the blizzards of the century. Manual transmission can also suffer in winter, so you need to be sure you have that lubricated and taken care of as well. The turmoil and price of getting a new transmission can be avoided if you stay on top of the situation by keeping an eye on the changes and the fluids it needs. Finally, if you drive a manual - try not to grind the gears in any situation, but you probably already knew that.
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Posted in Car Maintenance, Car Parts | |
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December 10th, 2007 by Shenron
I’ve been looking for a resource like this for ages and finally found it!
As you may have noticed I’m a car enthusiast, not only a car enthusiast but also trucks, motorbikes and everything else that moves on wheels or has a motor inside.
Since ever I’ve been looking for a quality and specialized online book shop where I could find the books I’m looking for without having to dig through a ton of other gadgets and poping-up ads.
Motorbooks.com has the largest selection of books, calendars and videos for enthusiasts!
You can Buy Books at Motorbooks.com for cheap prices, and still find very specialized books on cars, hot rods, tuning, car maintenance or even the top-seller “Million-Dollar Muscle Cars” by Colin Comer.
Take a look there, I’m sure you’ll be able to find the book you’re looking for and that’ll make the perfect Christmas or Birthday gift.
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Posted in General, Car Books | |
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December 10th, 2007 by Shenron
This is one of the best videos I’ve ever seen about buying used cars.
Consider watching it carefully and follow the tips it presents to you.
Safety first!
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Posted in General, Car Maintenance, Videos | |
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December 7th, 2007 by Shenron
Carver cars have to be one of the most unique on the market to date; being that is has just three wheels and is a rather new design on an old structure. They have been in business since 1994 and have one model out today called the Carver One, along with servicing many countries. They are a Dutch manufacturer and pride themselves on the most cutting edge technologies in manufacturing and design (although they are not made in the Netherlands). The basic layout is that of a normal car inside, however it handles more like a motorcycle than a care – but without the instability associated with the motorcycle. One of the more fascinating aspects about the vehicle is that it can – when taking a corner – tilt to more than 40 degrees (45 officially) which gives it a much better turn radius at higher speeds. The engine used on the prototypes and the single production model called the Carver One has 65 horses; however it can be bumped up to 85 with an upgrade. The top speed for the vehicle is around 115 miles per hour, and it has an automatic balancing system to keep it stable in all conditions.
Currently they are being built by Prodrive which is based out of England and has a factory in many locations – the one in Germany is the place where the Carver One is manufactured. Prodrive in itself has a good record of building cars and parts for other companies, like Subaru and of course the Carver cars. Carver says that they test every part of the vehicle that Prodrive manufactures – over twelve hundred – to insure everything is tested and scrutinized for being properly made, and each component is manufactured carefully to be sure that the vehicles have minimal issues as they age.
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Posted in Car Brands, Carver | |
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December 6th, 2007 by Shenron
Oi, one of the hardest things in winter is keeping the car floor clean, let alone the seats and the rest of the vehicle. Some how it seems that no matter what you do soggy paper, dirt, and otherwise disgusting sludge that is half frozen always ends up at the bottom of your car or truck, or your foot pads are totally soaked. It’s because of people and their feet, and it cannot be helped at all, I guess you will have to live with it – or will you? Right now would be a great time to invest in rubber pads. Yes, rubber, because rubber doesn’t absorb grime and will protect the underneath from getting sopping wet. In fact, if you have rubber and also a spare towel, by the end of winter your car may only need a minor cleaning rather than a full blow shampoo overhaul.
Rubber is also pretty cheap, and it lasts a long time. During those wet and cold times of the year you can use the rubber padding and keep a towel handy, then during the dry and warm times put back the old pads you’re used to. Furthermore you can also include a small trash receptacle or a file holder that hangs off the glove box, or even just a random cardboard box between the seats to throw paper in to keep it from combining to create a paper mache. Another common error by passengers and the driver is to pile up everything in the middle console of the vehicle, pushing stuff in the cup holders and piling it up until its instability causes it to come crashing down into the watery soup of doom. Using other alternative storage methods, like the plastic bag and a small box will alleviate much of the problem.
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December 5th, 2007 by Shenron
Being prepared for winter also means you will need to have the right tools and accessories ready in the case of an emergency or just for your won convenience. One of the most useful things I have found to be is the common crowbar, it does everything. It can pop open a frozen hood, it can be used to dig out snow from under the tire when its almost pure ice, it can be used to help pop open a stuck door and finally it can also make a great window breaker if you are not careful. Always keep a crowbar in the car – it makes a great deterrent to anyone who would carjack you too. When you are driving in the cold, be dressed for walking out in the cold. You never know when the vehicle you are in could have a collision or a mechanical failure that will strand you – and if you are near housing or other people and places it is best to walk there for help than to stay stranded in a car. Now, one of the more controversial things to keep with you is, of course, the cellular phone. Don’t talk and drive, but keep it in case you need emergency help, and know your surroundings. A good emergency phone is one with track-able GPS so rescue personnel can find you.
Other things to have in your car involve the emergency aspect, such as heat packs that will activate upon being cracked inside through a chemical reaction, glow sticks, a flash light, a first aid kit that contains special heat containing blankets, and of course a battery operated radio. In addition to this, yes as mentioned before, chains, you need a set of tire chains or else you could really be stuck. It is also a good idea to keep along an emergency cache of gasoline and oil in the trunk during winter – as being stranded means you may need to run the heater off and on. However I would personally put my efforts more toward getting unstuck. If you want to you can also have an emergency salt bag to keep snow melted around the muffler, or to get unstuck, along with a folding shovel. Who knows, it may save your life. Oh, and for Pete’s sake, keep a pair of winter gloves that fit so that the news story doesn’t mention amputations of your fingers after you rescue your car and yourself
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December 5th, 2007 by Shenron
Getting stuck in the snow sucks – trust me, I know. When we had the 5 feet of snow I couldn’t drive for a week, and the snow melted in just a few days. The reason was I had no traction back then on my tires. Before you do anything call your municipal city or county office, or even your local police station to ask about chains being allowed. Usually they will tell you it depends on how thick the snow is, however if you live in a large city where they do a lot of salting it may become a hassle to put on chains in the garage just to get out of the drive way and up your street until you get to a main salted road. Well there is an alternative to chains, and that is winter tires. Before winter hits invest in a set of winter tires made for snow travel, and when winter comes get them put on. They may not be as effective as chains, but they will do a lot better than a regular tire. A second tip is to make sure your driveway is at least scraped to the barest minimum. That way on the way out of your garage the tires don’t get caked in snow before you even make the road.
As always, please take a set of chains with you, regardless if you need them or not. Preferably the kind that are easy to put on a stuck tire after you run the engine enough to make an opening. This way you can get out of a lot of stick situations where your vehicle would get a citation for being illegally parked – or worse – it will be plowed into by the oncoming traffic or the snow plower. There are more accessories you should have with you besides this if you plan on travelling in the snow for great distances, and they will be addressed in another article.
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December 5th, 2007 by Shenron
I have made a pretty big fuss so far about corrosion, and yet don’t think it has been explained in detail enough why corrosion is so bad. Well corrosion occurs as a chemical change in the alloys and metals in your vehicle, rust is a chemical reaction that creates iron oxide – that flakey brittle red stuff. Well as salts and water invade the crevices of small cracks in your cars armor, such as the metal itself or the paint, the oxidation reactions and other chemical reactions in corrosion will begin to take hold and slowly eat away under the paint. That’s why some older cars have rust bubbles under the paint – it was able to infiltrate and eat away at perfectly good metals. The winter is especially hard on the car, because the cold causes water to contract and ice to expand out, causing small cracks, the salts used to melt the ice on the road will infiltrate the cracks or through brute force when being smacked up on your vehicle can act like sand paper. The bottom of your car where your axils are, where the muffler line runs, and where some of it can be kicked up into the engine are especially vulnerable as in many cases they lack paint an protective coating.
This is where the car was becomes important. Before it gets too cold go to one, and run your vehicle through it once without anything but the basic wash – no waxes and no coatings. Once you do this inspect it, make sure it looks clean, then run it through again with the full shebang, get the undercoating, get the waxing, get it all. This way your car will have a layer of protection from the salts, and from the ice. Although the salt will eventually wear the wax down it is better to have spent 20 bucks here than to spend 200 or even 2000 bucks later because of corroded parts, mechanical failures, and touch up painting. By keeping it coated you will have the salt trapped in the coating many times – but also it will be kept away from the metal, those small cracks will be filled – preventing oxidation, and your car will have that funny just-waxed smell. If you get a break and have a few warm days in between snowy days – war enough to melt that is – go to the wash and repeat the process so you have a fresh coat. Spending a little here and there can save you hundreds to thousands in what could be repair costs.
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December 5th, 2007 by Shenron
Under the strain of extreme cold some lower grade metals and alloys become brittle, prone to cracking, additional stress on them can cause mini breaks that lead to eventual failure of the part. The addition of salts on the roads to melt the ice becomes a much bigger problem as winter wears on, and if your car is unprepared you will likely reap the consequences as the weather warms, as corrosion will being in any of these micro-cracks and cause your vehicle to rot from the inside out. That may seem like something that is impossible – but just because it looks fine does not mean that it is fine. Let’s start with the most basic thing that makes a car, well, a car. The wheels. Your wheels play the most important part of your transportation. Not even your engine will be as important considering you could always get a few horses to pull you. The rubber on those tires is going to take a beating from the salt, and the cold – not to mention driving with them in the snow and maintaining control, but I will touch on that later. If you can invest in a special winter set and want to go that route it will save you a lot of cash in the long run, however if you are like most people you will not do that.
So, how do you keep your wheels safe and sound in the winter? Simple my dear Watson – you cannot. Your wheels will have to bear the most abuse, but if you want to keep some control you might consider getting your break pads and power steering looked at, as your break fluid and steering fluids need to be able to withstand the freezing temperatures, also you can save the rubber if you rinse off the tires on a warmer winter day.
By rinsing the salt off the tires you will keep them from really having a problem. If your power steering fluid is bad, or can freeze in the cold climate, get it flushed and replaced, same goes for the break system. If your break pads haven’t been replaced in a while – do it now, and buy an extra set as your will want to replace them after winter so that none of the salts remain on them. Or you can have the current ones cleaned after winter so that corrosion does not occur.
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December 5th, 2007 by Shenron
That little thing under your hood – or big if you have something better than a Honda eco car – is not something that you can say “Well its metal, it cant be hurt by the cold”. Wrong, in fact, dead wrong. Oil can coagulate, anti-freeze deficiencies. Not only does anti-freeze lower the freezing point so that you don’t have a bricked engine, it also increases the boiling point so that you do not overheat your engine – it also acts as a heat conveyance material as it absorbs heat from the engine and delivers it to be dissipated in the radiator – furthermore it decreases corrosion caused naturally or by the actions of two incompatible metals that share the same space and touch. If you live in especially cold areas, it is a good idea to flush the system and use an anti-freeze that will not turn to a fancy ice during the coldest days of winter, and it is also a good idea to have an early oil change. Synthetic oils that are rated for your vehicle and for the temperatures you encounter are very good, as they seem to have less of a slowdown issue than other more “natural” oils that really like to gunk up cars I see. If your local mechanic says you can use a different kind of oil in your car during winter – trust him.
In addition to making sure your oil and your anti-freeze stays liquid, rather than becoming a solid problem, you might want to take a look at the other fluids that are running through your vehicle in winter. Gasoline sometimes contains water, and because the gas tank will get just a cold as the rest of your vehicle there is a chance in some un-insulated or thinly double insulated (which is usually the law to have because of the risk of a fuel leak in an accident) tanks can freeze – and even the best ones if left for a long time with a low amount of fuel and a lot of excess water. It is a good idea to keep the tank above half way full, and to use additives to keep the water from causing issues in the engine. Furthermore when you start your car you should definitely wait before leaving the driveway – but please don’t be a statistic and warm it up in the garage. In the garage, even with the door open, exhaust can accumulate and cause respiratory problems, and in severe cases death – like breathing in a plastic bag until there is no air left.
Finally, there is one more aspect of the engine that can be severely undermined by the cold. Your battery. When a battery gets too cold or too hot it will lose efficiency and thus lose its ability to maintain a charge that will start your car. Before winter hits invest in a good battery that can withstand temperatures of your region, and go ahead and replace the belt on your alternator, and even other rubber belts in your engine right about now. The freezing effects of ice will cause the rubber to become stiff, and as it ages it will begin to crack and lose grip. Along with that ice can also short circuit any electrical components that are at risk – so make sure these get insulated as soon as possible.
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December 4th, 2007 by Shenron
As many of you know, winter is upon us in the northern hemisphere, and that means increased chances of snow, colder weather, and more wear and tear on all parts of your car. How much wear and tear? Well consider this – most cars break down in winter as I have seen at the auto repair shop. The most common cause of these break downs and issues? Being unprepared for all the stuff a cold winter can dish out. Parts will wear out after being cold and going hot quickly – your engine will suffer through cold starts and fast cooling in extreme cases, your tires will wear faster one roads covered in salt, exposed metal will corrode faster because of the road salt, some windows will crack under the weight of ice and snow, some break pads will go stiff and be unresponsive, many cars will be stuck because of a lack of traction and yet more cars will simply refuse to start.
You can avoid almost all of this by just being a little prepared and ready for the snow, the cold, the harsh and dry conditions of winter. One of the major complaints is also about how dirty a car can get in winter since you cannot really clean it effectively in a cold environment where everything freezes or the car washes are closed. You’ll find a simple step by using the car wash can really give you an edge when it comes to keeping your car stable throughout winter and keeping it from rusting – but you’ll need to keep reading to know. Another major complaint I see a lot in winter is that the heater in some older cars just will not cut it – so they hook up a space heater in their cab or do other things that are just as silly rather than address the underlying problem of either an older inefficient system – or poor insulation of the system. Furthermore a space heater will drain the battery faster and could be a hazard – it is recommended that before you go out and get a space heater at Wal-Mart with an adapter for the power plug-in that is also used for the cigarette lighter – you try to find one actually MADE FOR VEHICLES. Research it. It’s better to know.
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